Vogue Business flagged Tolu Coker as one of the “hot new” labels to show at London Fashion Week this season. We can confirm Coker delivered on hot and new but also bought game-changing into the chat. In a busy week that mixed parties, screenings, new talent and established names, Coker’s first solo fashion show on schedule at LFW was a stand-out for Spring 2024.
Since graduating from famed UK fashion college Central St Martins in 2017, the British-Nigerian designer has worked for Martin Margiela, JW Anderson and Celine and launched her own label in 2018. Coker’s unisex brand showcases her skills as a designer but also her work as a textile designer and illustrator... Basically she’s polymathically talented.
Coker has been supported by The British Fashion Council’s NewGen scheme, which is celebrating its 30 year anniversary this season with a brilliant and immersive exhibition at The Design Museum. From nurturing some of the most famous names in fashion - Alexander McQueen, Erdem and Julien Macdonald have been former recipients of NewGen's mentorship and financial backing - Tolu is the next wave and her inclusion has left us optimistic about fashion’s future…
Titled ‘Irapada’ - which means ‘redemption’ in Yoruba - on first glance Coker's collection riffed on the concept of Sunday Best, with tailored blazers, smart suiting, neat skirts and statement hats all making a runway appearance. But it’s essential to look beyond the clothes both when styling or writing about them - and when choosing what you want to wear or, more significantly, who you want to align your own values with, as a consumer.
With this in mind it’s key to note that Tolu celebrates her Yoruba heritage through her work and this collection angled the spotlight onto the African diaspora through the entire show experience. The soundtrack sent joy through the audience. Standing guests couldn’t help but dance to the live saxophone and percussion music while a video of Coker’s own naming ceremony, which took place in her childhood home, was projected onto the back wall. That intimacy was sweet yet also packed a powerful punch.
The family connection continued to run deep. Skirts and wide leg culottes were printed with family photos and Coker looked to her own experiences with Nigerian religious tradition to inspire the headwear and hats, some of which were made from plaited weaves.
Worn by cast of all Black cast of models, up close, the view from the front row was as perfect as from afar. Sometimes when you’re so near the clothes you glimpse loose threads or hastily pinned emergency stitching as young designers hustle to complete their collection in time - but not here. Every piece was immaculate and finessed to a level that is rare in such a young brand.
The way in which Coker crafts highly sophisticated pieces - those with longevity and presence - is another pleasingly surprising element of this collection. Coker includes deadstock, recycled leather, upcycled denim and plastic scraps for a truly sustainable design DNA. Challenging any perceptions that pre-used can’t be luxurious, these pieces were as slick as you like and combined traditional craftwork with the latest tech. Coker highlighted the responsible angle that we should all be buying timeless investment pieces and while classic, the collection was never dull.
We can’t wait to see what comes next…
Read more from Glamour UK Fashion Director at large Alex Fullerton here or follow her on Instagram @alexandrafullerton
ncG1vNJzZmivp6x7qLjApqauqp2WtKLGyKecZ5ufY8Kse8Crq6KbnJp8tbvLrmScp5uav26vwK2umqSbYsCpu9ZmqZ6on6fBbr%2FPq6Cnn12owq65xKtka2hiaQ%3D%3D